A couple of weeks ago we built this bag:
Renata in Cognac Jacket)
A part of a 3/4 length vintage coat was used to build it, and we admired to two-toned colourway of it, the sturdy, crease resistant leather and the snap buttons, some of which had to make it onto the bag.
Now, through our practice, which of course, has not been very long, especially, interpreting vintage coats and re-constructing them into bags, the chances of finding ANOTHER coat, just like we used before, are very slim.
Knowing, that many of these garments are a couple of decades old, made and sold in completely different times and quantities, those chances are merely non-existent. Sometimes they are imported from other parts of the world, too. That's why they are in such a high demand with contemporary accessories designers - for their uniqueness and rarity.
That's why we were so surprised to find another coat, just like the one we nearly used up a few short weeks ago...
In another part of town, and the tone of the jacket was slightly different, the two-toned bottom part was more monochrome, but it was the same model, size and series! Same beautiful slant pockets, buttons and collar.
So, this means that there are doubles - not many, but there are. This sure gives a little hope to a Custom Service client, who missed out on snagging a beautiful interpretation of a vintage garment.
Posted by Jolanta
Sunday, October 20, 2013
Wednesday, October 2, 2013
The Fall season is upon us, with its earthy tones and fresh scents of harvest. It also means, preparations for the upcoming Holidays.
The Fall is the most plentiful season for Accessories, and each time it comes around, there is excitement – to see the new collections of our favourite handbag, hat, scarf, perfume, beauty and clothing labels, along with discovering great new ones to add to lists.
Our Fall will be all about the Permanent Collection this year (Sarah, Renata and Khela bags), accompanied by new smaller accessories.
|Renata, Oje Kappel|
|Sarah, Black Jacket|
|Renata, Cognac Jacket|
|Sarah, 70s Brown|
We love our recycled garment purses. Each of them is an interpretation of the source, highlighting the best features of it; rather, a tribute to the source.
|Sarah, Black Melanosa Jacket|
|Sarah, Blue Melanosa Continuum|
The Khelas will rotate in colours, phasing out some older shades, for newer ones, further showing off their polished silhouette and understated details. The mid-weight, inspired by equestriennes, remains one of our most coveted designs. We might even try our luck in bringing back the one colour, that started it all for Khela in 2011. Stay tuned in 2014.
|My favourite inspiration shot|
Small accessories: we’re debuting our key-chains this Fall, for your gifting ease. Limited edition Latigo leather and compact cowhide tag key chains in several shapes will hit the retail shelves soon. You can view and purchase them directly from the hatchery here.
|Small Key-chain, Tan|
|Latigo Key-chain, Tan|
Pssst – we expect to have a new Collection ready to go for pre-Fall 2014, but the early styles will peak out here and there as early as the new year.
Monday, September 2, 2013
To add to the excitement we had leading up to our Trunkshow with Radjuli, our event was featured in the North Shore News, a paper covering the happenings on North Vancouver, home to Favourite Gifts.
The on-line article is here.
Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com
Monday, August 26, 2013
Great summer in Vancouver, partaking in a few events, shows, and even organizing a few in the Spring and Summer, slowed down the process of building an upcoming new Collection.
Even today, although, the blueprints and sketches are laid out in front of me at my desk, the Collection is very much a work in progress, balancing a few different directions of inspiration, different materials I am currently coveting, and trying to edit and boil all those ideas down to the most necessary.
I do not believe a collection of accessories needs to be generated every season, especially, if we’re talking handbags. It should rather reflect a flow of inspiration, a result of trials and research, whether it is searching the outside world, or within.
I so far have eight close to the heart designs (in progress), that may land a spot in the upcoming Collection. I will do some crude edits and re-draws to tie them into a cohesive mix. Then there is a whole other pack of ideas for small accessories we always carried alongside the handbags. There were very different factors at work shaping this bunch of designs, and for that reason alone, streamlining will be crucial.
One strong force was me trying to create pathways to bring more mixed reclaimed materials to our handbags, as well as new custom shapes and prints. I was sketching for both – leather and other raw-materials, from canvas to recycled fur. Then, there was a drive to simplify the existing shapes, remove the complications and grey areas from all new patterns. In addition, I realized I had expectations set by my customers and retailers, to maintain a recognizable look, with key features, they came to appreciate over the first few years; features, that would immediately say, JVD. And, then, there was my own, pure, inspiration behind some of the new bags-to- be: the country looks, the unique reclaimed materials, some lifestyle elements (we do want to hit the outdoor show and festival scene next year), the intimacy of our detail work.
All that is hard to boil down, as these features are not only different; they are very valuable for any Collection. Maybe, I even have more than one “collection” sketched up on this desk, waiting for the right time to take shape. We are not sure at this time, when the full new range will be released – while the early prototypes will begin surfacing during the Holiday season this year, a good estimate for the new release may be Pre-Fall 2014.
Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com
Wednesday, July 31, 2013
Last weekend was the debut of Circle Craft and BC's Craft Council's first ever outdoor show. The two organizations team up each year to put on one of Vancouver's best known high quality juried art shows in November.
We spent 4 days at the Summer Market, and everything was superb, starting from the smooth set-up, and great neighbours, to weather.
|Blue sky in the background all weekend|
This event was free of charge to attend, so any bi-passer could walk by and check out what was happening. The foot traffic was very busy all weekend long, with cruise boats landing nearby and otherwise busy Coal Harbour area.
|The tents and the North Shore view|
|The Olympic Cauldron and the Southern view|
The venue was not only busy, but also beautiful - of course, like in any outdoor event, it all could have been different if it rained. This Vancouver Summer has been unbelievable, so taking our show outdoors, was a grand idea this time.
Below are some shots of our set-up...
|J. in the booth, Saturday|
|Leather overalls turned out to be a conversation piece|
|An engraved pen - a little giftie from our neighbour, The Woodman|
|The weekend's give-away, QtBeach.|
Many thanks to those who attended and supported. We hope to see you in our upcoming events.
Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com
Announcing our first collaborative Trunkshow, with a special guest – Radjuli, a celebrated accessories designer from Victoria, BC.
|Flask Holster by Radjuli|
Saturday, August 10, Radjuli will be joining us for a one-day-only Trunkshow and Sale at Favourtie Gifts boutique in North Vancouver. Those of you, who have previously visited our Trunkshows, this time will be surprised to see the store looking all different for this event.
|Form contrast: Sarah bag, JVD and IPad case, Radjuli|
|Fluid and strong: Our Khela bag and Radjuli's Bookbag|
Radjuli’s designs have made a name for themselves by distinct look of raw leather edges, incorporated old cowboy belts, rivets, keys, locks and other odd animal pieces. Juli gives meaning to random parts that, may seem like they do not even belong together. Her designing world is so different from ours. Where our imagination ends, hers begins.
To find out more about Radjuli’s amazing creations, visit http://radjuli.com/
Lucky winners will be drawn at the end of the day to receive great prizes from both designers, as our way of saying thanks for your support.
Also, help spread the word about this event; tweet: #JVDRadjuli to win our purple Patrice Has Options messenger (above) – twitter contest ends on the 9th. The winner also drawn on the 10th.
August 10th, usual store hours, 10 – 7. One day only.
Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com
Monday, July 29, 2013
|Sourfce: Deposit Photos|
I don’t often blog personal matters, but recently we got some extra hi-5s, praises and re-posts, all with regards that our SALE items are “well priced”. Some of those items were discounted by about 50%, some were even lower. While any praise is good, and I am grateful for it, what does “well priced” item really mean in the world of handmade?
In the wake of tragedies in Bangladeshi garment factories, consumers were finally exposed to the true costs of their cheap goods, but any backclash can only last for so long in the face of declining median incomes and offshoring jobs, which destroys buying power. Also, the history of well protected offshore mass-production and big box chain retail, created an array of unaware and entitled shoppers, with limited tastes and perception of societal classes.
Many of those shoppers view artisans as “elites”, “superiors” linked to wealth and celebrity status. They often assume that we do this, because we’re indulging our inner grandeur, all have family funds to fall back on, and, therefore, boost the prices of our products as we please. The big misconception is, that for years, shoppers were have been entrenched in the rise of the big box stores, stocking the cheap goods, built in poor countries, for wages of a compiled daily value, lesser than a price of an ice-cream cone (work for $4 a day anyone?).
Most shoppers today had completely lost touch with how much it costs to produce just about anything. They’re unaware of the skill and time required, let alone the true costs of the materials. And yet, many, especially in the older generations, have been enjoying the benefit of unionized wages, pension and health plans, paid vacations and leaves, and other benefits. They’re very aware of what a good wage can buy. They just are unable to connect the value of their own wage, to a work of an artisan.
So, what happens, when items like ours, go on ‘sale” and enter the realm of the perceived “well priced”.
Western made handbags have a very little mark-up to their wholesale.
It takes an average of 4-7 hours to produce one of our regular sized bags. The bags must be pre-planned ahead, sourced for leather, then cut, by hand; and sewn into a shell. They are all fully lined, most feature interior pockets and compartments, exterior details, some hardware, such as magnets, zippers, D-rings, etc. It requires two different sewing machines to produce shell and lining. The machines consume power, the leather consumes storage, and work consumes time. My supplies have their fixed costs too – the leather, the fabric, two types of thread, tools, needles etc, etc - it all adds-up. Sewing leather requires increased accuracy and advanced level. I pay myself $20/ hr for my work, as opposed to $4/day... The purses sold in retail provide us wholesale returns, with that very little mark-up. If we were to “boost” our prices, as some say, our products would be priced out of the reach of an average customer completely, putting both our business, and the business of our retailers, in jeopardy.
The only notable “profits” artisans make, is when they sell directly to customers. It allows us to keep the retail mark-up, which is higher, than the bare wholesale.
So, when we sell you a bag on `sale`, discounted by more than 25%, that puts us at risk: to not cover our costs, to not cover the art show fees, shipping, time put in and other expenses; to not be able to pay our suppliers and employees, to eventually not being able to pay our bills, such as rent, groceries, etc. Our employees, suppliers, helpers are all working for Western wages, just like you do, so the costs of dealing with them are higher, than dealing with poor country offshoring. To make one of our bags, it costs, e.g. $120; as opposed to $18 for anything made in India.
When we sell you an item, discounted by 40% or more – we solely cover our costs involved produce that bag – with nothing going towards rent, business development, employee wages and other bills.
When we sell you an item on `clearance` (65% off or more) - we cover the costs of our materials only, and not paying me for any of the work. The `well priced` item sale has just stripped someone of their earnings...
So, here is the hard truth of being an artisan.... While it is great, that sales are as appreciated as they are, it is important to not feel entitled to them. When you end up buying a sale item, cherish it even more, because someone took a huge gamble for your benefit.
Below are a few most common questions and misconceptions we have encountered in our few short years of selling handmade:
Q: When are you gonna have an end of season or sample sale this year?
A: We do not hold any regular “sales”. Our items our season-less. We make them in small quantities, hardly any left to sell-off.
Q: Why are they so expensive? – oh, they’re leather!
A: Actually, the leather amounts for about a quarter of the price of our bags. It is the labour, which creates the cost. We manufacture everything in house for Canadian wages.
Q: Can I get an X% deal on this?
A: Not sure what you do for a living, but does your employer come and ask if you can take a random X% salary cut this week?
Q: If you lowered your prices, you’d sell more, no?
A: Perhaps. But we would take a loss on each item, which would compound. Remember businesses, sunk by Groupon?
Q: Why are you making $20/hr, when I am making just $15?
A: I do not get paid, really, till the bag sells. You are making a one-time purchase from us, and we will not see you in a while (cos our products are great quality), so need to cover the gaps. Also, we really, only make our money at the Christmas season....
Q: Why do local designers tend to ‘boost’ their prices so much?
A: They hardly ever boost. They’re dealing with local suppliers, show organizers, accountants, drivers, who have families and work for Canadian wages.
Q: Why would I buy this, when I can go to X store and get an X brand for just about the same price?
A: It is your choice. You certainly can – but you’ll be buying a mass produced accessory, that not only is cheaply made and will shortly disintegrate, but you’ll be also running into numerous people wearing that same thing. You will also be contributing to global poverty by supporting big corporations, who will use your money to employ children and eventually, will outsource your job.:)
Q: I’m looking for an X leather bag, with X,Y,Z, etc features, pocket here, there, and there, credit card slots on this side and with lining of X,Y,Z colour for about $150. Can you make that?
A: I could. Only, having in mind all the features you‘ve listed; you’re looking at a price of about $400 or more.
Q: What can an artist do to cut back on their costs to give a ‘better’ price for us, shoppers?
A: We take steps to simplify our design to decrease labour demand, do not over-stock our goods, offer returning customer perks, make QUALITY items, that will outlast anything you own probably, offer custom or bespoke services, shop for deals on supplies ourselves, deal with local suppliers to avoid shipping and duty costs.
Q: If it is hard to make a living as an artisan, why do you do it?
A: Because this is what I am good at, love and chose – for the same reasons people are doctors, drivers, mechanics, nurses, day care operators or stay-at-home parents. I’d make a miserable and ineffective accountant. But you’re here, buying our bag, so I must be doing something right.
Q: Why is it important to support local?
A: Because when you do you’re putting the money back into your country’s economy, do not contribute to globalization and poverty creation and abuse, you support real people, real families; positively contribute to the environment preservation, help preserve culture and richness of your home; help prevent homogenizing and unjust monopolies in business.
Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com