Mood leathers: Select Rescued Upholstery

With the season gradually ramping up, to keep production interesting, each day we choose what to build based on mood and feeling. 

Unfinished shells of a few newbies

Select Rescued Upholstery is specialty leather found in odd lots, remnants and other rescues. All random colours and finishes. It has been our core source material since the very first season, because of its different properties and characteristics. I find it very educational to work with such a varied range of materials, as one hide is never like another, needing different kind of attention, and skill every time. 

The result is different each time, and that is what keeps things exciting.

our F/W2014 Collection will launch mid-Spring.


Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com

A simple serendipity..

A couple of weeks ago we built this bag:

(Renata in Cognac Jacket)

A part of a 3/4 length vintage coat was used to build it, and we admired to two-toned colourway of it, the sturdy, crease resistant leather and the snap buttons, some of which had to make it onto the bag.

Now, through our practice, which of course, has not been very long, especially, interpreting vintage coats and re-constructing them into bags, the chances of finding ANOTHER coat, just like we used before, are very slim.

Knowing, that many of these garments are a couple of decades old, made and sold in completely different times and quantities, those chances are merely non-existent. Sometimes they are imported from other parts of the world, too. That's why they are in such a high demand with contemporary accessories designers - for their uniqueness and rarity.

That's why we were so surprised to find another coat, just like the one we nearly used up a few short weeks ago...

In another part of town, and the tone of the jacket was slightly different, the two-toned bottom part was more monochrome, but it was the same model, size and series! Same beautiful slant pockets, buttons and collar.

So, this means that there are doubles - not many, but there are. This sure gives a little hope to a Custom Service client, who missed out on snagging a beautiful interpretation of a vintage garment.

Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com

Jola V. Designs and Radjuli one day Trunkshow and Sale - Aug 10, at Favourite Gifts

Announcing our first collaborative Trunkshow, with a special guest – Radjuli, a celebrated accessories designer from Victoria, BC.





Flask Holster by Radjuli





Saturday, August 10, Radjuli will be joining us for a one-day-only Trunkshow and Sale at Favourtie Gifts boutique in North Vancouver. Those of you, who have previously visited our Trunkshows, this time will be surprised to see the store looking all different for this event.



Form contrast: Sarah bag, JVD and IPad case, Radjuli




Fluid and strong: Our Khela bag and Radjuli's Bookbag

Radjuli’s designs have made a name for themselves  by distinct look of raw leather edges, incorporated old cowboy belts, rivets, keys, locks and other odd animal pieces.  Juli gives meaning to  random parts that, may seem like they do not even belong together. Her designing world is so different from ours. Where our imagination ends, hers begins.



Springbok clutches, Radjuli and Feather Lights 2-section, JVD

 

To find out more about Radjuli’s amazing creations, visit http://radjuli.com/

Lucky winners will be drawn at the end of the day to receive great prizes from both designers, as our way of saying thanks for your support.

Also, help spread the word about this event; tweet: #JVDRadjuli to win our purple Patrice Has Options messenger (above) – twitter contest ends on the 9th. The winner also drawn on the 10^th.

August 10th, usual store hours, 10 – 7. One day only.

Favourite Gifts boutique - #204 - 123 Carrie Cates Court,
North Vancouver, BC

Radjuli.com

Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com

Khela, progress

My latest Collection is big leap from the first attempts to sew leather three years ago. And, the very trustworthy new machine I got last year has been an extraordinary help. I am so glad I was able to do the kind of stitching I always wanted, and in the past, although I knew I had the skills to do it well, I simply did not have the machine, that does not let me down in those critical moments. I like exposed stitching, pleats, folds and sculpting, and this Collection has been based on that...

My new confidence has delivered perhaps the most complex crown to date - a low-key and  functional one, which was the true intention behind it. You've probably did not even notice it, yet is has been relentlessly doing its job - on Khela bag... The bat-wing zipper expansion....

The zippers inserted into the crown of Khela allow the wearer a wider access to the inside of the bag when needed, and close it when not needed. I came up with that idea after once trying to quickly allocate an umbrella inside one of my bags. What if there was a space inside a bag, I thought, where I could stand the umbrella upright, with the handle right at the top, so I can pull it out in a split second...

The zips are facing the outside, and the nubuc of the 'bat wing' faces the inside. I need to do at least four inversions of the bag parts, before I can fully attach it to both  - front and back of the bag. Then, four more for the other side...

Now, it is time to connect the top of the crown and enclose it: two more inversions to the inside-out to stitch, and back again - to, later, top-stitch. I love top-stitching, and do it whenever possible. The varying tensions bring out the colour properties of leather. Here, a Khela is being built in gorgeous Harness Brown - coming soon for FW 2012...

Top-stitching is the most demanding part of the build. It comes, when most of the bag has already been assembled, so way too late to mess up - and practically no room to start over...  Yet, top-stitching can be the most important detail of the design, and it can be the one trait, that grabs the eye. The zippers get sewn in twice - on the bad side, and then, top-stitched on the good side.  Those are some firmly holding zips...

 The top-stitching also follows through the very centre of the bag - this is where I tend to go really slowly, especially through those centre folds of the outer shell. It pays.

And then... some fifteen inversions, countless folds and pleats later, we have the assembled bat-wing crown of the Khela...  Lastly, on comes the flap closure and the strap holes. The zips look gorgeous, and really do serve a purpose. See a Khela wearer pull out a water bottle right out of that corner, or swing out an umbrella in a second, makes it all worth the effort and the handiwork.

This is how they look like, when complete: Mahogany, Harness Brown and Cafe.  

Khela bags are available at the Webshop and Favourite Gifts in North Van


Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com

Folder: oversized fold-over clutch

Folder, Deep Red

I really enjoy designing new things, and adding them to an existing collection at any given season. Folder is a Spring addition to FW2011 Cebrellex, along with The Starter, Iolanthé clutch (pics soon) and Luff. Although it took me a while to develop smaller bags, this Spring is definitely the season of the clutch.

Folder, Spanish Moss

Folder is a classic zip clutch, intended for evening or day. Not meant to house every necessity in the world, but has enough space to take in quite a few of those, while remaining elegant.

Folder, Classic Burgundy

The bottom is expanded with corner darts, avoiding that `bloated`look some other flat clutches sometimes have, the moment we put something inside them.

Hazelnut, Azalea, Aqua, Deep Red and Spanish Moss

Zippers we selected are all metal, keeping the look fresh and somewhat festive at the same time. The colours will vary throughout the seasons, however, Folder looks great, both in classic Earth tones, in Brights, and Metallics or Pearlescents.

Purple Python, Gold and Lake

Some of the Folders, especially in the rare brights, will come as sets, along with a matching Big Skinny belt - and, we cannot wait for the JVD logo Hardware to arrive, so it can complete the carelessly elegant look of Folder....

Purple Python, Lake and Gold

As for me, I will be wearing mine from pick-nicks to parties throughout the Summer (and Fall, and Holidays).

** Currently: Folder is available at the Webshop, Dream Apparel and Poppy Hair Boutique, colours vary. Email us to help find your favourite shade**

Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com

Thursday Day Trip

My job share of the past year ended last week. Now, I have to scramble through the month of February of full time day-job, till things ease up again in March, as I begin my "personal leave" and go back to half time.

Wanting to make the best out of my last half week, before a month of running a job and a business simultaneously, I treated myself to a Vancouver Island trip. I set out to Victoria, for a very overdue visit to the Rad Juli  flagship store and workshop.

Rad Juli is a fellow leatherworker and a friend, who, to the envy of all of us in the handbag etc. biz, has recently  moved into a new gorgeous studio with a storefront space, and even a display window.

She specializes in unique, one of a kind accessories for ladies and gents, built from all kinds of rescued and found materials. She has built following with both, Mainland and the Island arts community, as well as loyalists outside of Canada. More about Rad Juli's creative process and her work-space - on her blog, http://www.radjulionline.com/

image source: Radjulionline

After a bus ride through Victoria, which I really enjoyed, I was treated to a sunny walk down Bay street, not too far from Victoria Harbour. The neighbourhood there is historic and industrial, streets are narrow and windy; and after just a minute on Bay street, I felt like I was back in North England. I would not mind to be taking that walk daily - to work.. Or, at least, on sunny mornings..

Location: 2626 Bridge street, Victoria, BC

And, we're finally here! There's the bright sandwich board on the sidewalk - I must be in the right place. Apparently, I am not the only one visiting...

Tubs of hardware - I did not come in empty handed. Part of the charm of being an accessories person, is to be able to share with your friends all the good resources, suppliers and steals you come across. I salvaged this hardware from a day-coworker of mine, and some of it seemed right for Juli.

The storefront fills up with visitors and clients. So helpful to have that beautiful display window, overlooking the walk-by traffic. Sigh... The Rad Juli flagship store carries her own designs (handbags, belts, gloves corsets and other accessories), as well as vintage clothing, accessories and finds.

She's in action! Juli wrestling a bison side into a gents' traveling cross-body. I always find it amazing to watch other people work. Out of the blue, they do something really smart and I sit there, wondering, why hadn't I come up with that ages ago!

That was a very inspiring trip, and a healthy change of environment for me. It had my head spinning with wishes, ideas and plans for my business.

Radjuli Custom Designs
Studio/ Store
Tue - Sat 11 - 5
106 - 2626 Bridge street, Victoria, BC
V6T 4S9

http://www.radjuli.com http://www.radjulionline.com

Posted by Jolanta http://jolavdesigns.com

Leather for the Fall part 1 - Finished Light (and not just light- ) Upholstery

I have been slowly rolling out the new Pre- Fall 2010 Coming Of Age collection since late spring.

With the weather changing and fall season getting closer, I have compiled the colours and textures of leather, to use for the most of my new Collection. 

It took me a while to come up with a bunch this beautiful, as all the leather you'll see here is cowhide - either overstock, liquidation, orphaned and found or otherwise reclaimed. I learned to be an opportunistic buyer, and just snatch a great hide (or bits and scraps) whenever I see it... And it could be the only one of its kind.... So, inevitably I will run out of either some of the colours, or finishes, and eventually they'll be replaced by new ones, as the season progresses.

The leather will serve to create bags in all my new different styles, requiring different characteristics. These are NOT all the colours I have sourced - these are the best ones!

This post covers the Light Upholstery Earth Tones and Brights.... 

Here's what I found.....

Purple!

Staying true to my seasonless earth tones of Brick, Taupe, Ash, Navy and other neutrals. This fall, the colour perception divides into two sides, with neutrals standing in for one, and brights - for the opposite. Purple is a definite leading jewel tone - and the purple finished leather I found, is just beautiful. Glossy, fluid, captivating...  Also loved the Red, which, to me, speaks of Central European countryside's roofs and fences.

Brick Brown

Taupe Grey

Burnt Red

 
 But my very favourite finds, in fact, are these two: Orange! (I think Orange is great for winter, and I am only hoping I will not be the only one thinking so. It is the strongest 'Pick-me-up' colour for the dreary and rain filled Vancouver landscape..) and Olive - warm, somewhat mysterious, lightly textured and fluid. Can't wait to show you what I come up with, when I tackle these two....

Orange!

Olive Green

 

In the next post I will cover the remaining different types and shades of leather for the Fall: and that is Unfinished, Oil treated, Distressed, Garment weight and others.... Sourcing materials in definitely one of the best parts of what I do....

*for custom orders, pls. visit my web-page, www.jolavdesigns.com *

Small news

Even though my heart and mind are set on the upcoming trip to my home country, life, however, still goes on. 

Latest updates include me being accepted for so far the biggest art show for me to take place in the end of the year; added a challenging retailer to the family, arranged a trip home - and planning to cut back my time at the day-job this fall, just in time for the busy holidays...
To follow up on my previous post about feeling all guilty overpricing my handmade bags, I have recently been called out on the very opposite - undercharging....

I joined a group of designers, carried by a successful high end retailer. During my meeting with the retailer, I received advise on how to add value to your products - and why you should do it.

For the first time since I started my bag sewing adventures, I feel like I have been challenged by someone and forced to step outside of my comfort zone. Even thugh I am willing to create a range of high end purses, based on the store's feedback and expectations, it all still must co - inside with my own philosophy, original ideas and aesthetics.

With their advise in mind, I started making some changes to how I did things up till now. I have located and ordered additional leatherworking tools, which will save time neede to work on certain styles of bags, and will improve detail finishings. I have worked out some new additional styles, that could be dedicated to the exclusive collection. I have even did some basic tuning on my sewing machine, and now it works like a champ! Most importantly, I did not need to resort to different leather or fabric stock to meet their expectations, which I feared the most and was quite ready to protest earlier - I simply went back to the liquidated materials I loved all along, but ruled out in the past, due to my lack of skills or equipment. Its like I've finally come a full circle!

I am only in the infant stages of this new endeavor for me - but I have learned so far, that challenges can be good to help you see your craft in a different light. Also that's a great time to revisit work methods or sourcing options you have ruled out before. And, challenges like this one will force you to re-evaluate your craftsmanship - and take it to even a higher level.

My limited "high end" collection, featuring several re-worked current styles, and three brand new styles will make its debut between early July to early August.

It will also be available for purchase at my booth at the One Of A Kind Show in Vancouver, Dec 9-12.

Motifs - Spring 2010 Intro and Pre-fall 2010 Coming Of Age collections

I am excited to realize that it has almost been a full year of BAGS! In this snip of time, - and it did seem like a true snip - on random evenings, weekends, lunch breaks at day job, and wee hours of morning, I have been creating and sewing my favourite accessories... It has been an interesting year of ups and downs, as I had to eventually learn how to sew leather, find time to draft, grow and promote my line  - and that's been happening at the strangest times, locations and ways I could not even thought of.

Since the start - when I sewed my first ever Kerry bag (and it hardly looked like anything it does today), followed by a few grassroots models; my style has changed so much. I think I am slowly moving towards finding my looks, my nieche and trends, and learning to differenciate Inspiration from Impulses. 

Here's a brief look into a few new designs, to be included in my new Coming Of Age collection, that I am hoping to put together in time for Fall this year.

The "Ruffled Satchel" -  Pre-Fall Coming Of Age collection - is currently looking for a name. I thought I'd show it off at the Portobello West market this coming weekend prior to the whole collection. Comes in garment, upholstery and automotive leather grades. Currently in summer colours. Get 15% off of this bag at Portobello West for the blog readers.

Terri Ann -  Pre-Fall Coming Of Age collection - a compact yet roomy shoulder bag. Modernized Saddlebag styling - feminine and traditional country motifs will be present throughout the upcoming collection, along with my signature 'no-metal-hardware-and-no-lining' look... Mostly upholstery leather. Get 15% off of this bag at Portobello West as well....

And here are a few other bags, which I did not have images of  - as they were gone to their new homes or retail shortly since completion.....

Renata - Spring 2010 Intro collection - unadorned and beautiful...  Mostly light to medium weight upholstery leather. Worn both  - by long shoulder handles or messenger strap. Unlined.

The long rein of the 'Hobo' (or Western Rounded shape) bag in fashion is officially over, and Fall will find us switching to a cross-over between a traditional 'Bucket' - rounded spaceous bottom bag and 'Satchel' - a straighter soft top, securing and accommodating the space inside the bag, created by the rounded bottom. The new shape of the 'It Bag' for fall is more practical in terms of carrying storage space, yet preserved all the best features of the Hobo - soft shell and comfortable fit against the wearer's body.... Renata's features channel the practicality and looks of the upcoming season trend.

Also, a couple fo new one of a kind styles are coming from TRIFFtextiles.

'This Is Triff' - a large felted wool and leather tote, all materials recycled.

And a 'Sequened' mini tote, reworked of recycled sequened bag gottoms and leather.

Also, 2 limited edition 'Ball And Chains': Come and visit my booth at Portobello West market on 27th and 28th